Wet or dry, avoiding pigtails, when to change discs, dust, hook-and-loop and storage.
Dry with dust extraction up to about P600 – faster and no water on the metal. From P800 on paint, wet sanding pays off: water cools, rinses away the swarf and gives a finer scratch pattern. Use waterproof sheets or film discs for this; paper discs go soft.
In detail in the guide →
Almost always from one of three causes: a skipped grit, too much pressure or a clogged disc. Choose the next grit no more than twice as fine, keep the sander flat under its own weight and change the disc as soon as it stops cutting. Guide coat shows you where scratches remain before every change.
Avoiding pigtails →
When it cuts noticeably slower, the surface gets warm, there are shiny patches or clumps of dust on the disc, or single deep scratches appear. It lasts longer with dust extraction, light pressure and the backing pad kept flat.
When is a sanding disc worn out? →
Extract first, right at the machine – with a perforated backing pad and perforated or mesh discs. Whatever still rises is caught by a tight-fitting FFP2 dust mask. Oak and beech dust is classed as carcinogenic, and paint and filler dust has no place in your lungs either.
Sanding dust: extraction and masks →
Usually it’s the backing pad, rarely the disc: its hook-and-loop wears out or gets clogged with dust. Clean clogged hook-and-loop with a soft brush or compressed air; if the hooks are flattened or discoloured, you need a new pad. To make it last: only switch the machine on once it’s on the surface and off before lifting it – an interface pad wears out instead of the backing pad.
In detail in the guide →Hook-and-loop backing pad →
Dry, at room temperature, flat in the original packaging – not in a damp cellar, not next to a radiator. Moisture makes paper curl; curled discs don’t sit flat and come off the hook-and-loop more easily. Lay slightly curled sheets flat under a weight for a day.
Storing sandpaper properly →